Monday, February 11, 2013

Honk Honk!

This weekend we traveled to the Ilulu Boarding School for Girls, where three of our fellow volunteers live. In order to travel to there from Masoko it takes anywhere between 1 and 3 hours, as well as multiple vehicle changes. We arrived shortly before lunch on Saturday and enjoyed a delicious meal prepared by their professional chef, who has a history in Mzungu cooking. Later, we were joined by two more fellow volunteers.

Originally, my housemates and I planned on heading back before dinner. However, since we arrived later than expected, the unpredictable journey home was looking less appealing. Morgan and I decided to stay the night after all, and the seven of us stayed up chatting like a middle school slumber party. Unfortunately, Said had plans for early Sunday morning so he headed back alone Saturday evening. For Morgan and me, this meant a serious test: two American girls trying to get back home via Tanzanian transportation. I'm proud to say we successfully boarded the dala dala, transferred to a teksi, and directed a bajaj right up to our front door!

Over the past month, and especially this weekend, I've realized that the transportation system has taught me a lot about Tanzanian culture. After riding in so many different types of vehicles, I've been able to observe key social interactions between people. Even more interestingly, I've come to pick up on a highway hierarchy. The faster the vehicle, the more rule it has. There are no such things as passing zones in Tanzania, rather if you hear a honk, get over! Trucks honk at daladalas, cars honk at pedestrians, bajajes honk at bikers. The honk is a way of saying "I'm bigger than you, so move over!"

Highway Ecosystem:

Bus: Similar to size and shape of American coach buses, Tanzanian buses are for long term trips. During our six hour trip from Dar to Kilwa, I sat in the cramped window seat of a bus, squished next to a Tanzanian man. Other passengers who purchased late tickets sat on buckets in the aisle. Buses typically stop about 10 times throughout the trip, only for roadside vendors to come to the windows to try and sell nuts, fruit, eggs, etc. The most surprising attribute of this vehicle is its ability to off-road. Rather than wait in traffic for construction, our bus traveled alongside the road on a dirt plowed, bump path. Luckily we made it back onto the paved road, considering we spotted another bus not so lucky!

Daladala: This is a vehicle for shorter journeys. Typically daladalas run on specific routes throughout the course of a day, like a local bus. From the outside, they look like minivans or small school buses, on the inside you can find make shift seats and people packed like sardines! It's very rare to get a comfortable accommodation, so people rarely give up seats. However, if a lady boards with a child, strangers will typically offer to hold him or her. In some places, like Kilwa, daladalas won't leave a stop until the vehicle is totally packed. The driver will usually wait until seats are filled and at least a couple people are standing. This could take over an hour, so unfortunately the other passengers are stuck waiting in a crammed seat, usually overheating from the sun.

Teksi (taxi): A teksi is really just somebody's beat up old car they use to make an income. Since there's no commonality between teksi vehicles, you have to look for the right stickers. Today, we drove back go Masoko in a rotting, squeaky Toyota sedan. Again, we had to wait for the car to fill up, which took about a half hour. Finally the driver managed to recruit six customers, in a car that holds five. In the backseat, Morgan and I had to share with two grown men. I was jimmied up to the door, so for piece of mind I locked it, only to find out later that the locks didn't actually work. At least I didn't realize until we were back in Masoko!

Bajaj: Best described as a three-wheeled golf cart, a bajaj is a small vehicle built for short distances. We usually use the bajaj to get to either the main town or the beach, both of which take about five to ten minutes. Typically, a bajaj fits three people comfortably, but of course there's always room for one more, so one can sit in the driver's one person seat. Since my roommates and I use a bajaj quite often, we've actually developed a monogamous partnership with one particular driver. He answers all our calls, regardless of time or day. He will also bring us requested items from the market to save us the trip! In my opinion, bajajes are the most personally accommodating vehicle on the road!

Piki piki (motorcycle): These vehicles are great for traveling as an individual. It is cheaper than a bajaj, but obviously a little more disconcerting. To my initial shock, the district actually arranged two piki pikis to transport my roommate and I to and from Mtanga. I didn't want to be a complainer right off the bat, so I gave it a chance! I felt a bit wind blown after each ride, but more importantly, I felt pretty safe! I was even able to take up the traditional side saddle position like most Tanzanian ladies. Just as I was getting really comfortable, the district actually decided to cut the funding and personally drive us to school. Those first two weeks were definitely an experience to remember!



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